CYCLING: Into Chile we cross and tackle the north with haste

It's been 2 weeks since I last posted a blog because so much has been going on that I just have not had time on-line. I hope this is not too long but every day has brought a different experience!

Km1248 to Km1300: We over shoot Tacna then restock
We made it to our last town in Peru, Tacna, in good time and were just so excited that we landed up cycling through and out the other side over shooting the town centre by almost 20km! When we realised what we had done we had to decide either A keep cycling and go straight into Chile or B cycle back up the hill to the centre. Given that we still had Peruvian Soles to spend, some shopping to do and had planned the afternoon off we decided to go with C and caught a taxi back to the centre.

Back in town we stocked up on all the non fruit and veg stuff we could like a giant sack of mayo, an absolute must have when needing to compensate for the staleness of a 3 day old roll.
I then spent most of the rest of the day stuffing my face. We hadn't seen a city this big in a while so I made sure I ate everything I hadn't had in a while like 2 big fat hamburgers and a piece of lemon pie, a couple of beers and about 10 boxes of Lentejas (Smarties).

Km1300 from Lima to Km2070 from Santiago: We cruise into Chile and explore Arica
The next day we got up in no hurry for a change and headed off to the border 40km down the road stopping just outside to polish off some avos, delicious olives with chilly stuffing and some fruit as you can't take fresh produce into Chile.

At the Km1340 mark from Lima we bode farewell to Peru. It felt quite strange leaving Peru behind as it had been our home for almost 3 months knowing it'll be a while before I'm back.
At this stage we had cycled the full Peruvian coastline from top to bottom covering over 2400km, around the same length of the full South African coastline! Taking into account the bit we cycled coming out of Ecuador we had cycled just over 2800km to-date.



Crossing into Chile at the Km2090 mark to Santiago, so were now counting down, the changes could almost immediately be seen; for a start the people looked a lot more European and the majority of vehicles went from buses and trucks to private 4x4s. The landscape and road conditions didn't really change all that much.



One of the first things we saw on the outskirts of Arica, the first town just 20km across the border, which we hadn't really seen in Ecuador, Peru or Bolivia was what looked like a desperate heroine addict flagging down passing trucks looking to offer a service of sorts. Its amazing how more capitalist societies seem to produce more totally down and out desperate people. In the more the socialist places we had been, where people weren't super wealthy, the poor just seen to blend in and be helped out by their fellow citizens with a little to no classism.

Arica is a nice little coastal town with everything you'd be looking for from beaches and a market to McDonald's which were all closed as it was a Sunday bar McDonald's, so guess where I spent my first day in Chile! It had free wifi so I was there a while up loading photos and doing some much needed admin. While sitting there it was great to observe the dynamic of the society here. When people came in they often looked very wealthy but did not shy away from greeting McDonald's staff with a hug and a kiss. Even the cleaner got a big hug from the majority of visitors.

The people in Arica overall seemed very friendly except for the annoying hostel owner who freaked out when she saw our bikes in our room, thank heavens she didn't see the oil mark Mark had left on the duvet when fixing his first puncture since leaving Ecuador.

I had the best roast chicken I'd had in a while later that evening and although it was a bit more pricey than Peru it was worth it because not only was it good chicken but it came with salad rolls etc. and the lady serving it was just so friendly. The lady even came over warning us not to leave valuables lying around, which we've became quite blaze about, and then proceeded to give us a lesson about what each of the Chilean Peso notes look like and which ones were more valuable (I would have thought that bit was obvious).

Km2070 to Km1869: Canyons
Mark had read in his guide book about 4 deep valleys between Arica and our next beach destination, Iquique, about 300km away. There is no coastal road between them so we had to head inland then back to the coast and to get valleys you need altitude, otherwise they be below sea level, so given we were at sea level we knew we had some climbing to do.

Refreshed we set off early and started climbing almost immediately as we got out of Arica getting to the top of a 1200m high plateaux and then plunging down the other side into what looked more like a canyon than a valley, getting to the bottom just in time for a good breakfast. We stopped under a beautiful thorn tree, which was rare as we were cycling through a very dry desert region, which looked much like the thorn trees we have in the bush in South Africa.


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After breakfast as we were packing up and moving away a lady popped out from behind the tree carrying a long stick and a little step. She then put the step down, stood on it and then proceeded to hit the branches of the tree. At first we were wondering what on earth she was doing but then spotted a cloud of dust moving up the valley under which were a huge heard of sheep making their way through the scrub land. Once under the tree a feeding frenzy ensued as they began to enjoy the cashew nut looking fruits that had fallen from the tree. We had another long cycle up and out of the valley onto an even higher plateaux this time taking over 2hrs to climb. As we hit the top there was a truck stop restaurant just waiting for us with an icy cold drink and a good lunch.



Later that afternoon we continued on to Cuya which lay in the bottom of the next valley. Unfortunately, here in Chile there is not much to the small towns between major towns and there was little in Cuya besides a police road block and a restaurant. We landed up having to stay in a shed behind the 'house' of the man selling biscuits to passing buses while the bus and their luggage is reached. The shed was filthy and infested with mosquitoes, thanks to the cesspit behind it, so by the morning we wished we'd just pitched our tents elsewhere.



The next day provided an even harder climb out of the valley taking almost 3hrs in granny gear. We were heading for the next big town, Iquique, which we knew we would not make that day but pushed on as far as we could. As night began to fall we came across a slightly greener area with a little roadside restaurant which actually turned out to be on the edge of a national park. We camped that night behind the restaurant and were treated to a beautiful sunset before heading off to bed.



Km1669 to Km1767: Down into Iquique
We were now starting the day at 1200m above sea level so after a good nights sleep (thanks to my handy ear plugs) we set off early continuing along the plateaux. We knew thanks to google maps we did not have any more valleys to conquer so we had hoped most of the day would be downhill. Given that it was sunrise the air was still and the road started out dead flat so within 2 or so hours of leaving we had killed 50km of the 100km cycle. Once we started to descend, knowing we were heading towards the coast, we were expecting a strong wind in our faces due to the cold coastal air quickly moving up the escarpment towards the hot and elevated inland desert.



Not too much further down the road our hypotheses was confirmed by two Belgiums going the other way. This couple has travelled this coastline numerous times over their lives so the they had plenty of route tips etc. to share with us as well as the knowledge that you should be cycling south to north due to prevailing winds. It's quite strange how you can come across complete strangers in the middle of a desert but suddenly have much to share then a few moments later happily cycle on. Looking at their bikes we had much in common but you could definitely see they were veterans and were far more relaxed about the whole thing suggesting extra loops here and there just because it provided some good scenery - at this moment in time we have one objective - get to Santiago! They summed it up perfectly: we just need a few more lives to do all that we want to do - if you ever feel you've achieved what you've wanted to achieve in life you've stopped dreaming!



We pressed on after a short breakfast to avoid the midday wind so fortunately by the time we did come face to face with it the gradient was steep enough to counter act its affects allowing us to come cruise down into Iquique by lunch time. A very kind couchsurfer, Jamin, took us in at late notice. Jamin was very interesting and at had a rather large collection of vintage tv games, Star Wars posters and many figurines. Another couchsurfer, Anahi, had invited us out for drinks so off we went. There was a big soccer game on that night so we joined her and her friends at the bar on the beach front. The locals here go mad for soccer so it was good to see a bit of the enthusiasm and the Iquique night life but overall its not much different from any developed beach city like Durban, New Quay, LA, you name it.

Day off:
We had planned the next day off to find a few things like a map of Chile, bike puncture kit and a new battery for my camera. Everyone recommended Zofris which turned out to be a massive duty free shopping zone but as within an airport you could only really get cameras, perfume, etc so as you can imagine we waisted a whole day not finding anything we needed. That eve we decided to drown our sorrows by eating a giant pizza then head off to bed and get the hell out of Iquique first thing in the morning.

On the way home from pizza Mark suggested we pop into the tourist office, frustrated by wasting a day, I was straight away like it'll be closed and if not just have a map of Iquique town square not the whole of Chile just like every tourist office. Fortunately it was on our way home and it was still open. When asking for the map we told them our story also said we were from South Africa and which resulted in a rather stunned 'really?'. Turns out the that Steff Botha, the girl that helped us, was originally from Joburg and had moved to Iquique to be with her Chilean boyfriend Boris, a sailor, she'd met in Cape Town.

We then landed up being treated to a coffee and a lemon pie by Boris and Steff ending a rather unsuccessful day with a smile and 2 new friends. We will definitely be keeping in contact with them. Steff's mother is actually originally Chilean but now runs the Chilean society in Joburg so we hope to meet her on our return home!



One of the most noticeable things having been in Chile now for about a week or so is that every home and car was flying the Chilean flag. Wow we thought this must be like the most patriotic country ever especially not having seen very many flags flying in Ecuador, Peru or Bolivia. As we cycled through town after town we have noticed even in restaurants and peoples homes there are Chilean coloured decorations everywhere. We began to wonder if there had perhaps been some big soccer event that inspired everyone to put out their flags but the news didn't seem to suggest anything. When taking a picture with Steff and Boris the girl taking the photo wanted to take it again because the flag in the background had been cut out a bit so I was like what on earth is with all these flags?! Steff started laughing and said she had had the same thought when she arrived around the same time the year before because apparently it had been the National Chilean Day 10 days prior and everyone had just not bothered to take down their decorations.

Km1767 to Km1665: Sleeping on a beach
Getting out of Iquique was a little hair raising as the road down the coast is narrow as it is nestled between the beach and the towering inland mountains busy with traffic as it is the same road that leads to the airport. Once past the airport the traffic settled and the skies began to clear a bit. About 70km out of Iquique the coastline becomes quite magnificent and I was just looking forward to 5:30pm so we could select a camping spot and watch the sun go down over the ocean while we cooked our dinner.



Just before we were due to find a place to camp we stopped to restock with water buying it from a elderly lady in a beautiful little town called Rio Seco, where she had lived all her life. We got chatting a bit and she just gave off such positive energy and a beautiful smile. That moment really did make my day ending with a quick dip in the rather chilly ocean and a great night camping on the beach falling a sleep to the sound of crashing waves.

Km1665 to Km1450: More beautiful coastline
The next day we arrived in Tocapillo cycling through a long dark scary tunnel to get there but it sure beat going over the top! Tocapillo has a few old wooden buildings but many structures in this town including the roads have been damaged by a strong earthquake in 2007. The people in the town were generally friendly and the hostel owner even took the time to stop and tell us all about the coastline. The next morning we were amazed to be given a wake up call at 6am, the time we had mentioned we had wanted to head off, and served a good breakfast before being sent on our merry way.



We were heading for Antofagasta a large coastal industrial city but spent a night on the floor of restaurant floor in between. Dogs here are treated a bit like vermin. In Iquique we had witnessed a dog get run over and saw numerous others along the roadside. This restaurant too had a dog that was treated like k rodent but this guy wasn't giving up that easily and looked like he had been run over at least 2 of 3 times but was still going strong!

Km1450 to Km1370: Antofagasta
Not much to report on Antofagasta except that they do have a Chile Automobile Club branch but it provides misinformation! We had heard from the Belgian cyclists that we had met earlier that week that a new shorter road heading south had now been paved but we just need to confirm this and we still needed a map of Chile. Firstly the map provided I could have drawn better by hand and secondly the road is not paved all the way as was confirmed by them!



The city in general is clean and friendly but generally pricey and just about the only thing to see is the Big Ben replica donated to them the by UK, don't ask me why they'd want one of those, which now stands proudly in their town square.

Km1370 to Km1180: Mark's Birthday and desert skies
We had heard that the road down the coast to Paposo had all but disappeared so knew we needed to head inland then back down to Paposo on the coast. We could have continued on down the Panamerican highway but it heads far inland from Antofagasta through 300km of the Atacama Desert before heading back to the coast further down below Paposo. So we decided try the new road that was also inland but not as far, heads past the La Silla Paranal Observatory and then pops out back on the coast at Paposo.

We knew we'd be spending a night in the desert near the observatory so we planned all our food and water and off we went. The road was newly paved and we saw maybe 2 cars all day which we thought was odd as it was a far more direct route towards Santiago. After a long day in the heat seeing little to no signs of civilisation all day we picked a spot at set-up camp. That stars were awesome that night and it was so peaceful out in the middle of nowhere.





The next day was Mark's Birthday so I hoped we'd have some kind of communication with the rest of the world when we got to Paposo so he could get his Birthday wishes but when we arrived the town it was far smaller than expected and did not have celphone reception nor an internet cafe. Also along the way we discovered the reason for the lack of traffic was that the road was not yet finished so we had a rather hairy 15km downhill section on a dirt road but thankfully no mishaps. That evening we bathed in the rather chilly sea and camped just on the shore with a beautiful sunset over the ocean.



Km1180 to Km1130: Taltal and the most generous family in the world
We only had 50km to Taltal just up the coast so we headed off early with the a plan to have our kit washed, do Internet admin then have a nice dinner in celebration of Mark's Birthday a day prior. However, things rarely turn out to plan.



The guide books had little or nothing to say about Taltal but all we know is that it was bigger than Paposo. After another surprise unpaved section of the road we started coming into what looked like an urban area. First we saw some really pretty and well maintained beaches then a cycle path leading up and over the hill to Taltal. Coming into town it just had a great feel to it, very clean, nice little shops and town squares and kids play parks dotted here and there.

We immediately started our searching for a laundromat which we could not see straight away so started to ask around. I saw a lady pushing a pram and asked her to point us in the right direction. She politely told us there weren't any but if we came round to her place in 30 min she'd help us our so we exchanged details and off we went to kill time having a cup of coffee.
We gave it at least an hour, as we are in South America and timing means very little, then headed over to the house. Marina wasn't back yet when we got there but soon after our arrival her husband, Robert, arrived home asking what we were doing waiting there. The family was also hosting a volunteer from the USA, Michael, so everyone just assumed we must be friends of his but of course we'd never met Michael and he was out teaching English at the local school.

It was hard to explain to Robert how we came to be waiting at his house but fortunately Marina arrived back just in the nick of time. After some explaining we were invited in and practically asked to have a shower so I don't think our sea bathing the night before was very effective.
Marina then put our washing on while Robert prepared lunch. Next thing Michael came home and we were too invited to have lunch and oh boy the fish, beans, avo and red wine were all very filling and delicious!



By the end of lunch Mark and I were feeling quite tipsy. Robert then insisted he take us to see there beautiful family farm just up in the hills where he's growing olive and lemon trees! Off we went in his 4x4 and into some very arid but with little cactuses dotted here and there. His daughter came along for the ride too showing us the playhouse her dad had built hear on the farm.



Later that eve were invited to stay on mattresses on the kitchen floor as the beds were all full which was incredibly generous and far more comfy than the average restaurant floor sans mattress. Later that night his brother and friends came round and we enjoyed another feast! Needless to say Mark's Birthday dinner has been postponed to the next town with a good restaurant but I don't think we could have asked for a better and more crazy day if we had tried! This morning Marina came through and gave us coffee and a delicious breakfast before sending us off. I hope to one day pay this awesome generosity forward but am secure in the knowledge that only good things can come to this amazing family!



If we as South African's can show just an ounce of the hospitality this family showed to us to our visitors it would go a long way to making it the best country to visit!