EXPLORING: Montanita - finding the perfect pole

We have finally made it to our new home and while Internet cafés are a plenty it has taken a little more effort finding the local wireless connection which was essential because hey who wants to sit in a sweaty internet café when you can lay back in hammock and have the world at your finger tips?

We arrived in Montanita at about 9am on Thursday on a 'directo' bus from Guayaquil which in fact was not direct but stopped to pick-up and drop-off everyone and their dog that needed a lift along the way but hey why not play the local taxi for an extra buck? Yet, every second of our epic 32hr journey was worth it because I think we may just have stumbled upon paradise!

We were dropped off on the side of the road leaving us to stumble through the town balancing a bike in one hand and a years worth of luggage in the other. We had arrived 3 days earlier than what we had agreed with the Spanish school but Jim from the school fortunately had a cabana that we could stay in until Sunday when we would move in with a local family which they had prearranged.

Jim and David (pronounced Dabid) the caretaker, very impressed by the amount of stuff we had managed to drag halfway across the world, helped us to carry our stuff over to the cabanas which are a little out of town. Mark and I were beginning to get a little concerned as the only places we could see along the road we were walking down looked more like shacks than the pretty hostels we had seen back in the town but as we came through the bamboo gates we knew we had ARRIVED! Could this be paradise?

From World Travels - Ecuador

Everyone in this town is friendly, everything is cheap, fresh fruit cocktails are made to your taste in the streets, buildings are covered in bamboo and leaves, and the sea and beach are just perfect! Another defining factor is that the place is incredibly safe - one of the Swedish girls we met told us that the family she is staying with does not even have a front door! Bicycles just stand up against street posts without chains, wallets and phones lay on tables without growing legs – its simple criminals are not welcome here – if you steal you leave and you don't come back. Tourists are the locals only livelihood – simple.

Every moment here has been fantastic so far –this morning we woke up at about 7:30am and went for a run down the beach and just as we were thinking it was time turn back we began looking for a pole where we could do a few pull-ups before heading back. A pole a on beach ideal for this in the middle of nowhere - ha what are the chances. Well just ahead we spotted a few of what looked like abandoned bamboo stalls one of which had lost its roof leaving a single strut just at the perfect height for us to reach. As we began to do our pull-ups we noticed our shadows stretch down the beach, across our foot prints in the pristine sand, towards the ocean where the waves roared and broke in prefect form – could this be the perfect pole?

We have met some very cool people here including Jim's girlfriend Dennisse a local from Guayaquil (Jim is from Chicago) who has made some effort already to teach us Spanish. What is really great is that we are the only South African's most of the locals and the travellers have ever met – in fact Jim said we're the first South African's that have been to the school since he started 6 or so months ago.

We have now been allocated the homestays that we will move into on Sunday and it turns out that Mark will be staying with a family in another village 5 minutes away by bike – just behind the perfect pole. I will be staying in Montanita itself – all the action is here and Ross will be staying in the cabanas that we are staying in at the moment so that's all good but I think it will be great for Mark to have the isolation when it comes to learning Spanish. I'd happily trade places if he was unhappy.

It is elections here on Sunday so all locals have been banned from drinking for three days before – looking at our election results maybe we need to do the same! Fortunately the ban does not extend to us so I think its time to head to the bar – cocktail anyone?

PS. I finally bought a local SIM so if anyone wants to call or text us the number is +59382916335

PPS. If anyone has heard from Ross and knows his plans or at least can confirm he is still alive please would you leave us a comment to that extend. Last we heard from Elmari was that he was surfing (or attempting to) somewhere on the Peruvian coast. Holding thumbs he pitches on Sunday!

EXPLORING: Home stretch to Montanita

It's 3am in Ecuador, 26 hours since we started our epic journey in Sao Paulo and we are now in Ecuador's largest city, Guayaquil.

The journey here has been beautiful and entertaining. Fortunately the huge layover in Lima, Peru never transpired. Declaring quite insistently that we are not Americanos and cannot afford exorbitant airport charges has so far saved us $300. Firstly the *@%# supervisor at Sao Paulo airport wanted to apply the bike policy to the letter and charge me $100 for not putting my bike in a box or case but fortunately after arguing for 45mins I got it down to $50. However, just as my Amex was declined the big boss arrived and pulled her nose up at the whole drama and waivered the fee! So there is an upside to our bank cards rarely working here!

The second case was when we arrived in Lima we discovered that there was a flight leaving in just over an hour to Quito. The connecting flight assistant insisted that there was no way she could waiver the $100 fee each to change the tickets so we looked down and slowly walked away saying we just could never afford that as South Africans. We then returned with puppy dog eyes begging if we could at least be allowed to grab a snack in the VIP lounge as it was technically their fault we had such a long wait due to their flight schedule change. This is when she realised there was no way we were going to pay so she promptly made an exception for us and off we went!

The flight along the Peruvian coast and up and over the Andes was awe inspiring-huge peaks rising almost straight up from the coast. We now arrived in Quito at midday instead of at midnight which allowed us to see this creeking but beautiful city by day. The terminal terrestre (bus terminal) was daunting by day as it was so we were glad not to have arrived here at 2am with all our belongings.

We left Quito on an old but comfortable bus alive and filled with jovial Ecuadorians. The road just outside of Quito down the Andes towards the coast was scary. Passing petrol tankers on blind corners at a hair raising rate when the sign in my minimal Spanish clearly said no overtaking and to stick to 20km/hr!

From World Travels – Ecuador

Mark seemed more concerned about how on the earth we would drag our 30kgs worth of bike up these mountains in a couple of months time. Concerns aside we just sat back (literally as the seats recline pretty much all the way back) and enjoyed the view shortly before dozing off to 1 of 3 Bruce Willis movies dubbed into Spanish that we would get to watch along the way.

The journey lasted 8 hours with 1 or 2 stops including one where we were singled out as the gringos in a routine road block but all was good once we produced our African passports with the 3 month visa stamp we were fortunate to receive on arrival. The passengers had been jovial all the way as if on am exciting school tour, chanting something when the lights went out after the movie and laughing at the top of their voices. One guy was even being the class clown at the police road block cracking jokes much to the pleasure of the rest of the men being singled out for a pat down.

We now sit in a modern clean Terminal Terrestre after catching a taxi ride from where the bus dropped us off, in what looked like a vintage Fiat station wagon. Bikes didn't quite fit in but no problemo Marko must just hold onto them tight while sitting in the back seat. In a few hours we will be on the last leg of this journey, a 3hr bus to Montanita.

Our Surf and Spanish school only starts on Sunday when we also expect to be reunited with Rosco! For now all we need to do is find a place to shower and sleep.

EXPLORING: Goodbye Brazil - Sao Paulo hello Ecuador!

Just a quick note to say thanks for the messages and comments and for those who've listed themselves as followers on the blog - it´s good to know you're keeping an eye on us and I most enjoy the messages/comments!

My blogs have been coming through thick and fast in the last 24hrs however we head to Ecuador at 6am tomorrow and if the rumours are true connectivity in Ecuador is going to be limited so I will try MMS pictures and a brief note as often as possible.

Sorry limited exciting pics from Sao Paulo (this gringo was sticking out enough as it was without flashing his camera around) but here are the highlights:
- picking my way through the many homeless people on the pavement on my way to our hostel door at 6am on a public holiday (pretty sad actually). We are staying pretty central and to be honest Hilbrow has little on this area!
- ox-tail stew, beans and rice at the local cafe
- brief visit and view from the second highest building in Sau Paulo - Edifício Banespa
- walk with Mark to the Jardim Paulista area - absolutely beautiful - a bit like San Fran without the sea and Golden Gate/Bay Bridge but great vibe and great people!
- watching a great game between Arsenal and Liverpool at the 'Feel at Home' pub - yes we came all the way to Sao Paulo and spent the afternoon in an English pub drinking Speckled Hen ale!
- unfortunately we did not get to meet up with Renata as we have to head off early

Tomorrow we take our most expensive flight yet across the continent to Lima where we spend 12hrs in the airport and then connect to Quito. We finally arrive in Quito after midnight hopefully with our bikes intact. Not sure how but we then make our way by bus down to Montanita where we will be learning to Surf and speak Spanish - bring it on!

To all of you in SA enjoy you public holiday tomorrow and most importantly savour your vote - I'm quite jealous -let me know how it goes!

EXPLORING: 3:30am Rio Airport

With minimal sleep I was woken at 2am by the hostel manager, Raphael, as my taxi to the airport had arrived. To my suprise the driver was not patiently waiting in his taxi but rather at the local 'offlicense' chugging a quick beer between customers.

Once I had squeezed my bike into the back seat we sped off to to the airport. The driver kindly rolled all the windows down so that I didn't gag on the smell of alcohol along the way. However, I did get to enjoy the aroma of the favelas as we shot by them bouncing along the uneven yet impressive highway braking only momentarily to avoid the attention of the traffic police dotted along the way.

Fortunately we had most of the 3 to 4 lane highway to ourselves so that we could safely corner the bends without having to touch the brake - I just had to keep telling myself its all ok people have been doing this in Joburg for years and lived to tell the tail.

As dramatic as the ride sounded it was all good as I arrived at the airport in record time having had a good one last view of the city by night and now so pumped full of adrenalin I had almost forgotten it was 3am in the morning.

Bike, bag and I have all checked in and are now on our way to Sao Paulo. Mark will be catching the bus in the morning and meeting me there. We have one night there and then we head to Ecuador!

EXPLORING: Arival in Brazil and exploring Rio de Janiero

Flying with a bike

Early on Thursday morning Dad and I met Mark and Kieren at the airport with bikes in tow and after much unnecessary anxiety our bikes were gladly accepted without any extra charge - unfortunately for another guy flying to Anglo he wasn't so lucky and was literally throwing his 'toys' out of his 'cot' - at least it kept Dad and Kieren entertained while we faffed with the bikes and tickets..

After a cup of coffee and some brek we said an emotional goodbye and off we went.

From World Travels - Brasil

Given it was a day flight we still managed to get some rest and time seemed to fly by for the both of us. Once in Sao Paulo I bid farewell to Mark and little did I know my bike and luggage too! I then flew on to Rio and Mark missioned off to catch a bus up to Rio which turned out to be the easier option - Mark technically would have won this leg of the amazing race.

When I arrived in Rio my luggage did not - note to all passengers connecting in Brasil -it is against federal law for your luggage to be automatically checked through to a connecting internal flight so you have to collect it and recheck it in (thanks SAA for sharing this info once I was already in Rio)!

So I did what was only reasonable for someone who has nothing but his passport and some cash and made my way to the hostel -made friends with a very friendly group of Chileans and Poles and drank beer while watching a local soccer game. By midnight I was shattered so I hit the sack popping my head up every time I heard the bell ring thinking it might be Mark arriving from his epic bus trip - little did I know he had already snuck in at about 2am and was sleeping away in the bunk next to me.

Fortunately TAM the connecting airline was very helpful and delivered my stuff to my hostel the next day (after telling me to come and collect it from the airport in the morning)! All's well that ends well - my stuff arrived after a couple of swims and an unnecessary pricey taxi ride to the airport- so it was time to explore Rio!


Rio de Janeiro

We stayed in the very chilled Wave hostel in Ipanema.

From World Travels - Brasil

This area is awesome we walked around day and night and didn't hear or see of any incidents of crime. The tourist areas of Rio can be compared to the tourist areas of Cape Town - developed, safe, fun and breath taking!

We spent most of our time here meeting cool new people and taking in the sunshire and beauty of Rio and enjoying the warm sea. We did attempt to sample the night life but after walking for blocks to find a local place with a vibe we landed up at a place which as the evening went on did not seem very popular with the ladies - so we moved on to a place that looked very popular with the ladies ...but they showed even less interest in us than the men in the previous bar .. we later discovered we were at a lesbian bar.. made for interesting spectating though!

Entertaining Highlights
Run, exercise and swim every morning

From World Travels - Brasil

Cycle along Inpanema beach, Copacabana beach, Urca and the Lagoa (lagoon)

From World Travels - Brasil

From World Travels - Brasil

From World Travels - Brasil

Flamengo vs. Botafogo championship final at the massive Maracana stadium (host to 2014 World Cup soccer)

From World Travels - Brasil

From World Travels - Brasil

Great people in Rio: Martin the DJ and his friend: Polish; Amit: Israeli girl who'd traveled for more than 7 months by herself and woke-up screaming in the middle of the night; two Chilean dudes who are traveling up to Alaska as journalists; Pete (English) and Oded (Israeli) also just started traveling; George's boy friend (he spoke of George but we didn't get his name at first) from Italy who spoke English with a Jamaican twang (we later found out that his name is Danielle); Vinix who is from Belo Horizonte (beautiful horizon); Anna and Dorothee from Germany and Raphael the hostel manager from Rio.

From World Travels - Brasil

Preparations: South Africa pre-holiday and send off

OK so its been 3 weeks since I left the UK and I'm still not in South America!

Been down in Kenton-On-Sea at Kerry and Nick's wedding which was ridiculously fantastic! But, I left my camera in Joburg so no pics but if you're on facebook someone is bound to have loaded some photos.

We had a great Easter holiday with the family in Port St John's which is an awesome rural coastal town.





Umtata Airpot - one of the most beautiful setting I´ve seen



And now my SA seaside holiday is over just as winter is about to start creeping in - I've had 2 days to pack for a year long holiday on a bike.. not easy but it beats loosing out on friends, family and beach time!

Just finished wrapping up the bike and packing my bags - as you can see from the photo I'm a little unsure about this whole bike thing!



OK off to bed then I fly to Rio, Brazil via Sao Paulo at 10am tomorrow so here's to hoping it all arrives in one piece including Mark who does not connect in Sao Paulo and has chosen to catch a bus up with a bike in tow!

Ross, our other friend travelling with us for the first bit, is currently chilling in Doha airport. Ross decided to take the scenic route via Doha, via London, via Lima and then is busing it up to meet us in Montanita ummm and I think we see him in a week or so time..