After a weekend of rain in the lake district we awoke on Rodrigo's friend's little plot just outside of Los Ángeles to the sound of more rain. Having already taken 2 days 'off' the bikes we figured we'd better get going no mater what. So, we reluctantly pulled ourselves out of our sleeping bags, put on our clothes which we had been drying by the fire all night and stepped out into the rain as it began to pour even harder.
We had considered taking a back road to Victoria where we would turn left off the Panamerican and head directly east for Argentina which would add an extra 30km to the 102km journey but given the conditions and that we had heard it was a dangerous road we decided against it. It was only 102km to Victoria so we had hoped to just push on a bit longer that day and get there by nightfall that day but the weather and our bikes had other plans.
I had bought new tyres in Santiago to replace my perishing old ones and now had the right tubes for them but the the actual tyre still had very weak side walls so with the bike fully laden I almost immediately got a puncture coming down the bumpy dirt road leading from the plot. Grrr I was so irritated, just as we were getting going as if it wasn't bad enough that it was pouring down with rain we now had to all stand in it while I again fixed a pinched tube. This set the tone for the rest of the day.
The rain never stopped, we were cycling down a rather not so interesting highway and I kept having to stop and fix a pinched tube so we weren't really having much fun but we have the hope of getting to Victoria where we would get off the highway and hopefully replace my stupid tyres, again! Lunch that day wasn't too exciting either because we had to make it while wet and cold huddled in a bus shelter on the side of the highway with trucks, cars and buses whizzing by (yes they have bus stops on their highway). Nick's bike too was now beginning to give troubles and his peddle crank kept coming loose so he too had to keep stopping to tighten that up. We must have looked a rather sorry bunch because a very kind man in his 4x4 bakkie (truck/pickup) stopped and asked us if he could give us lift to the next town but much to his shock we declined and continued repairing bikes and making lunch in the freezing shelter.
After lunch I discovered my tyre again had a slow puncture and Nick's peddle shaft still kept coming loose even after pouring half a bottle of 'Loctite' on it. Had we not had all the bike problems I don't think we would have been bothered by the the worsening rain but given that we had cycled halfway around the continent with very few punctures let alone more then one in a day and this was the first ever time we had encountered such cold and heavy rain we were just about ready for somewhere dry and warm and were in dire need of a bike shop. With 50km to Victoria in the pouring rain we knew we would get there so we decided to pull into Collipulli just 20km on.
When we did finally get to Collipulli we almost immediate stumbled upon a bike shop in this little town. While Nick and I had our bike troubles seen to Mark went on the hunt for a hostel and found an awesome little place with good food and a wood fire heating the whole hostel wonderfully. That night our clothes littered the hostel on just about every banister available but the owner only seemed to further encourage such behaviour by pulling chairs closer to the fire draping our clothes over them. Our bikes were fixed in no time and we were now warm, dry, well fed and ready for bed after along tiring day. It almost felt as if this whole thing happened just so we could get to experience this awesome little hostel and for that I wouldn't have changed a thing.
Km201 to Km113: Curacautín
The follow morning we were relieved to see the rain had stopped. We quickly gathered our warm bone dry clothes from around the fireplace and headed off. The sky was a bit grey and the highway busy so we were quite excited to get to the turn off to Victoria and start heading towards the Andes on a much quieter road.
When we did finally come to the turn off we realised it was quite a momentous occasion as we were leaving the Panamerican highway for the last time. The turn off was at the 609km mark from Santiago bring the total distance covered to around 5500km since we had started our trip up in Ecuador. Just as we took the turn off and were about to stop to take some photos we discovered the Panam had left Mark a parting gift; a big fat metal nail in his tyre. Left with little choice we decided to make the most of it and have our breakfast rolls on the grass encircled by the off ramp while Mark went about removing his parting gift.
It was quite nice enjoying our last meal on the Panam but we were definitely about ready to leave our faithful friend and make our way to a new warmer side of the continent. After having spoken about the town of Victoria for just about 6 months we just went shooting by the little place hardly noticing it was there because we were just so excited to be heading for the Andes. The road from there wasn't too exciting as it was still overcast and little of the mountains ahead could be seen but we did get to help some local ladies push start their car over lunch which provided some entertainment for both us and them.
Later we came to a little town called Curacautín quite early in the afternoon where we had planned to restock. I didn't like the look of the weather, needed to catch up on some much needed blogging and quite liked the look of the little town so the others agreed to see if we could find a cheap place to spend the night. While the others did the shopping I went on a hunt for either a close camp site or a cheap hostel.
After having been sent from pillar to post and not having too much success with finding a bargain hotel I spotted a little tourist office. The tourist officials were so awesomely friendly and also kindly advised me that there weren't any camp sites nearby but gave me directions to the bargain hostel in town. I had been given detailed directions but still managed to get lost so I asked some locals to show me to the place and thank heavens I did because it was just a random house on a little foot path down the back of an alley. An old man very hard of hearing came out and bargain an even lower price but it was only valid if we did not have a hot shower.
Proud of my find I rushed off to find the others who had just finished the shopping. It was good fun leading them back to our secret bargain hostel and I was only too happy to give the old man our business. I hadn't looked at the place because at that price we'd probably ready to take just about anything but we were pleasantly surprised as we just about had a house to ourselves.
Once in the place we found we had two rooms one with two singles and another with a double but this old man was not going to let a double be used as a single. Oh no he preferred to sit and dismantle the entire double bed, drag it out of the room piece by piece and then sit and assemble a single bed. Granted we were only paying for 3 singles but really, if I was the owner, to save myself an hour and a half worth of manual labour, I would have gladly left the double bed!
I was quite relieved we had found the place because just as we brought our bikes and all our stuff in it started to bucket down. I did hear rats running inside the wall just above my head board that night but I just sank a little further down into my bed and quickly nodded off to sleep, as it had been a while since I had been in a real bed I was not about to let a few rats disturb my sleep.
Km113 to Km22: Crossing the Andes Day 1 – Breathtaking Scenery
The next morning as my alarm went off I noticed it was rather bright behind the curtains. I slowly crept over and peaked through the curtains only see a fogged up window so I quickly rubbed a patch clear and all I could see was bright blue sky. We were due to be cycling between 2 snow capped volcanoes that day so all I wanted to do was jump on my bike and go go go! I ran down the passage, like an excited child on Christmas morning running to his parents room, to see if the other guys had too spotted the big blue sky outside window. They had noticed and were quickly gobbling down their breakfast so that we could hit the road before any clouds could ruin the amazing views.
Not far from up the road we began to see the two magnificent snow capped volcanoes on either side. Green, and I mean like really really green fields surrounded us. I felt like I was the luckiest man alive, how could it rain for days and nights on end and then on the one day we pass through one of the most beautiful places on earth the skies clear and we get to see it in all its glory! I was on top of the world and hardly thought it could get better but this was just the beginning.
There was a tunnel further up the road that passed through part of the Andes but one that would be cheating and two very dangerous as we had been advised it was long, often flooded and was infested with crocodiles (I never believed it but sometimes you just have to trust the locals). Fortunately for us there is a pass that goes over the top through the Malacahuello National Reserve providing breathtaking views but it would mean cycling along a rather unfriendly dirt road ascending and then descending 1000m within a 25km section.
When arrived at the turn off to Malacahuello National Reserve we decided to have a good cup of hot something and our sandwiches before we took on the challenge. We soon spotted a sign advertising hot chocolate at one of the many German restaurants in this region, Cafe Aleman – Augsburg. The place was perfect, it was basically a little wooden cabin just off the road set amongst some trees. The owner was just opening up for the day and was quite happy to serve us outside where we had started making our sandwiches for the day. There is a large German community in this part of Chile and they all seem to be running fantastic little restaurants or bed and breakfasts. If this lady started a bed and breakfast I would definitely be back for a visit if not I'll probably be back one day just for another cup of that hot chocolate!
After enjoying a delicious hot chocolate in the sun with fantastic scenery all round the lovely lady who had now taken quite an interest in our travels left us with a parting gift, a key ring brought all the way from here families home town of Augsburg, Germany! Needless to say she received some South African memorabilia in return for which she was quite pleased as she said it was her dream to visit South Africa, I really do hope her dream comes true one day.
Now full of happiness and good eats we headed off for our climb over the pass through the Malacahuello National Reserve. The road was far better than we had expected saying wow if it stays like this then we'll be happy, only to find the road got even better as we went on. The pass was quite steep and after all the rain it may have been hard to pass in car but given the great views we hardly noticed we were ascending. As we went up the scenery slowly changed from green green pastures, to more pine forest like surroundings to snow covered landscape. All the way up the views were of volcanoes and valley below but it just kept getting better as we got higher. Eventually when we got to the top we found a spot not covered in snow and looked over what remained of the Andes ahead and what would ultimately be Argentina. After some good reflection about where we were and how lucky we were to be there with such great weather we started out fast descent down the other side.
The other side of the mountain was almost instantaneously warmer but clearly a lot drier. We we weren't quite in Argentina yet as we still had another pass go over but that would have to wait for the next day. We came screaming down into a charming little town called Lonquimay losing a water bottle every now and again irritating me to no end. As you come hurtling and bumping down the dirt roads it shakes just about everything loose so anything stuck under one of the elastic cords eventually comes off. If you crush a bottle a little bit before pinning it down with an elastic it stays put longer however if it has any gas in it whatsoever, or if you are ascending in altitude, the bottle expands making it nice and smooth and really easy to work itself loose and hence many stops to pick up my now perishing bottle of Fanta.
Once in Lonquimay we set about making our lunch near the local town square. Soon a local school boy came to join us who must have been about 10 years old. First we offered him a little South African soccer ball and then some pens but he wasn't interest. All intellectual Ricardo was interested in was the information pamphlet about South Africa. This little kid was incredibly polite and seemed to know more about South Africa and Africa in general than most of the people we had come across so far put together. He even had some crazy story about an African caterpillar that feeds on the local cactus variety. Ricardo definitely had been taught not to accept gifts from strangers (although information pamphlets seemed to be ok) because he wasn't even interested our sweats when we started digging into them.
All Ricardo was interested in was our stories and South Africa. I think he had a particular interest in us because his dad was apparently from Ecuador and he knew of the places where we had cycled from. Later that day his mom, who I'm quite sure was beginning to worry about these strange men who had befriended her son, came out to take some photos with us. It was then time for Ricardo head home and as his mom led him away he turn and said with a happy tone in Spanish 'Please come and visit us again'. This was quite heart wrenching given we knew it was unlikely we would ever be back in this little town again but hopefully we've inspired Ricardo to perhaps one day get on bike and follows his dreams too.
We had already had a fantastic long day so decided that after lunch we would roll just out of town and find a place to camp but as soon as we got back on the main road towards Argentina we found we had a gradual downhill and a strong tail wind. The border post on this route is quite strange. You exit Chile at the entrance to the Alto BioBio National Reserve and then 22km away on the other side you exit the national reserve and enter into Argentina. Thanks to the tail wind we found ourselves 60km down the road and just outside the entrance to the Alto BioBio National Reserve in no time. To enter the reserve we would need to get our Chilean exit stamp and figured it probably be best not to spend the night in no man's land as we would not have managed the additional 22km so we decided to camp just outside the reserve.
Camping by what essentially is a border post is not something I could ever have imagined myself doing especially not in this crazy dangerous South American continent. However, the truth is that Chile and Argentina are probably just as safe if not safer than any country in Europe so we were quite comfortable setting up campingin a field not more than 500m from the boom which essentially demarcated the edge of Chile. The police did come by later that evening to see what we were up to but once we had explained ourselves they said they were happy for us to camp there and that they would keep an eye out for us.
When I think back on this day it truly was one of the longest and best days I have ever had in my very privileged.
Km22 to Km0 and Km1880 to K1814: Crossing the Andes Day 2 – Cruising into Argentina
The next morning we woke up bright and early ready for the 8am border opening time. First we had to spend the last of our Chilean pesos and because I hd too much many on me I even got lucky enough to change my money at a good rate with the shop keeper. If there is one thing Chile does have it is good chocolate so I stocked up on my favourite slabs and off we went. Getting our exit stamps was easy work even if Mark did get a few extra questions just for having a rather bushy beard.
Once inside the Alto BioBio National Reserve we immediately started to climb but this came as no surprise because one we had been pre-warned that we had a long way up before we would go down into Argentina and two the name of the reserve includes the word 'Alto' meaning high so there was no deluding ourselves. We climb felt like it was never ending and as we looked back on the volcanoes and mountains we had left behind us and conquered on the previous day they almost began to appear quite dwarfed by the pass we were now climbing. Every corner we came around looked as if it was going to be the horizon but then another rise would appear.
Finally we reached the top of the Pino Hachado pass and passed a sign on the other side of the road welcoming visitors to Chile so we assumed we had crossed over in the Argentinian part of the reserve. Not long past this sign the beautiful tar road disappeared and became a perilous steep dirt road down into Argentina, later confirmed by some rusting Argentinian welcome signs. We began hurling towards Argentina at quite a pace now hitting over 50km an hour on bikes not very well balanced also not helped by large stones and lose gravel on the ground. On one corner the road began to slope inwards, I didn't want to fight the gradient as my tire may dig in and send me flying so I just had to follow the gradient and landed up flying over the pile of rocks that had gathered on the inner corner of the turn. Fortunately, I kept my steering straight and bounced rather vigorously over and through the stones amazed and relived that my tires hadn't ripped to shreds. Phew that had been a close call.
At the bottom of the pass after the road seemed to alternate between dirt and tar a few more times we came to the Argentinian border post. Fresh produce apparently was not permitted into Argentina but thanks again to Mark's beard he received most of the attention. One of the guards searching my bag came across my medicine bag and started pulling all sorts of tables and stuff out and was asking what it was for. Most of the medicine I was carrying around I discovered I had no clue what it was used for so just thought up some common condition each time, did a few charades and then the guy would nod and move on to the next pill.
After our big search we explained that the fresh produce they had now pulled form our bags was supposed to be our lunch and since we were 40km or so from the next shop we would need to eat it before going on. They understood and said ok take it just we must eat it all at next rest stop further down the road. That was fine except that we had eaten not that long before at the top of Pino Hachado pass and were thus not hungry at all but not ready to turf our beloved avos, so we just kept going rendering their whole search procedure pretty darn fruitless.
The landscape pretty quickly turned to the semi-desert everyone had told us about looking a lot like parts of the Eastern Cape. As we looked back over our shoulders now leaving the snow capped peaks of the Andes way behind us it brought home how far we had come in the past 2 days.
That afternoon we pulled into our first town in Argentina, Las Lajas, and discovered what we were to discover in every town in Argentina and that is that they shut-up everything at about noon for a siesta and only reopen again at about 6pm. After scouring this small town for an open shop and an ATM we made our way back to the main road, with our wallets and shopping bags full but our tummies empty, where we found a petrol station with a good restaurant/bar. What we have also discovered in these small towns is that often the best restaurant in town is the one at the petrol station just on the edge of town and probably because its the only place open 24 hrs.
We spent the afternoon there and enjoying a meal and a few beers. Later we discovered an ablution block around the back of the petrol station made available to passing truckers so we asked if we could camp on the grass around the back to which they gladly agreed. As we set-up our tents at the back of the petrol station we enjoyed a magnificent sunset looking back over the Andes. We had now successfully crossed the Andes and were now enjoying getting to know our sixth country in South America, and I could honestly not have asked for a better experience.
To see all the pics from Chile click here and from Argentina here.
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